Résumé
Intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including lifestyle and sun exposure, can contribute to cell senescence, which impairs skin homeostasis, that may in turn lead to skin aging. Senescent cells have a specific secretome, called the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) that includes MMPs, CXCLs and S100A8/9. Reducing the SASP with senotherapeutics is a promising strategy to reduce skin aging. Here we evaluated the effect of a formula containing niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, which are known to limit senescence and skin aging. We conducted three different studies. (1) Ex vivo explants treated with the formula had more collagen and glycosaminoglycan. (2) In a clinical trial with forty-four women, two months of treatment improved fine lines, wrinkles, luminosity, smoothness, homogeneity, and plumpness. (3) In a third study on thirty women, we treated one arm for two months and took skin biopsies to study gene expression. 101 mRNAs and 13 miRNAs were differentially expressed. We observed a likely senomorphic effect, as there was a decrease in many SASP genes including MMP12 and CXCL9 and a significant downregulation of autocrine signaling genes: S100A8 and S100A9. These pharmaco-clinical results are the first to demonstrate the senomorphic properties of an effective anti-aging formula in skin.